Barking dogs………… that’s what filtered in my mind as I slowly regained consciousness in our tent on the beach. This wasn’t exactly the remote, peaceful camping experience I half expected when we packed our tent, but then again, we purposely picked a spot with a restaurant that attracted the dozen or so giant RVs. The main highway ran directly behind the beach and all night long the truckers used compression brakes through the twisty mountain road keeping us (me) from a solid night’s sleep. Still, it was a beautiful morning with warm temperatures and the sun glistening on the smooth water. The first (second) order of business was preparation of instant Starbucks coffee to kick start the day. Deby and I eased into the morning drinking coffee at the shoreline watching the shore birds scavenge for their morning breakfast.
Eventually we decided to pack up the tent and move on. We had an easy travel day ahead of us since we only wanted to go as far as San Ignacio. On the way we stopped in Mulege and rode to the mission.
A little bit about the mission here from Wikipedia:
Mission Santa Rosalía de Mulegé was founded in 1705 by the Jesuit missionary Juan Manuel de Basaldúa at a ranchería of the local Cochimí which was known as Mulegé, in Baja California Sur, Mexico. The site lies near the entrance of Bahía de Concepción, on the Gulf of California coast.
A few odd details of the mission’s history are known. A hurricane in 1717 devastated the agricultural fields that supported the settlement. Construction of a stone church was begun in 1766. In 1768, when the Franciscans took over responsibility for Baja California from the Jesuits, there were reportedly still some 300 Indian neophytes at Mulegé. However, by 1770, the mission was virtually deserted. The Dominicans, who succeeded the Franciscans in 1773, began rebuilding, but the population remained less than 100. The mission ceased to function in 1828. The present church buildings have been extensively restored.
We liked it because of it’s wonderful stone construction. The door was open so we wandered in and took a few pictures.
A nice stop, I think Mulege is kind of growing on me.
Back on the road we continued north and made a random turnoff into a small fishing village along the Sea of Cortez, San Bruno? It seemed like a spot that didn’t get many touristas but we continued to the marina and hung out and watched some of the fishermen and their catch.
Catch of the day.
Back on Mex 1 north we stopped in Santa Rosalia for lunch and gas. The highway runs perpendicular to the main road into town. In the past we’ve always just rode past but this time we needed to run into town to extract some money from the only ATM before San Ignacio. On the way through town we passed the metal church that is supposed to have been designed by Gustave Eiffel of the Eiffel Tower fame. It’s a working town that supports the huge copper mine that literally surrounds the city. There were old mine shafts exiting along the highway and the remains of a huge smelter still stands along the highway out of town. Traffic was crazy so I didn’t take any pictures but have some good GoPro footage I’ll have to sort through. Here is a link to the Wikipedia page on Santa Rosalia and the controversy about the church. Santa Rosalia. I did like the picture they had of the working waterfront.
With replenished fuel for our bodies, motorcycles and wallet’s we settled in for the 45 mile ride to San Ignacio. The road weaved east from the Sea of Cortez into the Sierra San Pedro mountains. On our right we watched the Volcan las Tres Virgenes the local 6,300 foot volcano of three virgins. In the background were two more volcanos explaining the miles of old lava flow that followed the road.
San Ignacio is a small town roughly midway between the Pacific and Cotez side of the Baja peninsula, I had heard of a popular stopping point for travelers called the Ignacio Springs resort so we decided to check it out.
Yes, that looks like a tent to me, and I would say it qualifies as camping! As you may recall I had a problem with my sleeping pad…. not a problem here.
Oh wait…. is that a bano with a shower and hot water?
Private outdoor patio?
Now, don’t get me wrong, I do like camping and getting away from it all in a secluded camp site but this looked like some luxury camping that we couldn’t pass up. Oh, did I mention breakfast included? Free use of the kayaks? Our hosts Terry and Gary who moved here from Canada 12 years ago couldn’t be better. Here is a link to their web site: https://ignaciosprings.com/
We just might have to stay a few days…..
Preview of what’s to come and I promise more pictures and less blah blah….
Donn and Deby