Journey Through Time Scenic Byway

In May the weather starts getting better in the Pacific Northwest and of course our thoughts turned to riding. Washington and Oregon were still sorting out what virus restrictions should and should not be in place so after some research we determined we could probably manage a few days riding in Oregon and Washington. I’ve always been interested in the Scenic Byways that many states have now designated so when we came across the Journey Through Time Scenic Byway in Oregon we thought we would check it out.

The following excerpt is from the official Oregon Travel website. Click HERE for more.

The marks of time are stamped across the landscape on this 286-mile/460-kilometer route through prehistoric fossil beds, mining boomtowns and surprising sights like the Painted Hills.

Driving across northeastern Oregon is a trip through the state’s historical timeline. This route begins at the Columbia River, the traditional fishing and gathering grounds for generations of Native Americans. It travels through river canyons and into the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, where 55 million years of life are preserved in the rocks. And it explores communities past and present that tell stories of the state’s hardworking heritage in the woods, in the mines, on the ranches and on the railroad.

Ok, prehistoric fossil beds, boomtowns and Painted Hills? We were in!

The starting point of the byway is along the Oregon, Washington border about midway across the state. We decided to let the weather warm up a little and get a late start towards the town of Hood River which is known for high winds in the Columbia George and the windsurfing crowd it attracts. We booked a room in advance at the Westcliff Lodge, unsure what to expect when we arrived since we heard Oregon was more locked down than Washington. Yes, the hotel was open but there was no food service and most of the restaurants in town were closed. As it was getting dark we ventured out towards the center of town and saw a Mexican Restaurant with cars in the parking lot.

With masks donned we ventured inside and found out that it was the first day they were open for business in months, although at a reduced capacity. This was, in fact, the first restaurant we were inside since before we left for Mexico at the end of March. It seemed strange but we were glad we wouldn’t have to eat gas station food for dinner again. I even took a picture.

We walked back to the lodge to call it a night. It almost seemed like we were the only guests however, in the morning there were a half dozen cars in the parking lot, but that was about it. Strange, especially since it was Memorial Day Weekend.

Friday morning we arose to sunshine and blue skies, perfect for riding. We managed some hot water from the office and mixed up some instant coffee that we always carry with us. We complimented that with an energy bar each and we were ready to ride.

We followed the route first south and then east on highway 218 to the John Day Fossil Beds.

We stopped at a small roadside pull off and went for a scramble up a rocky trail to look at the scenery and maybe find some fossils.

No fossils, but we had a nice hike. Probably one of the only downsides of exploring on motorcycles is that we need to do side-hikes in our heavy motorcycle boots and protective clothing. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our climb exploring the rock formations. We met a few other people on the trail and everyone kept their distances, stepping far off the path when we met. This was something new for us at the time, now it seems normal.

Beautiful scenery along OR 26

We booked a cabin in Sumpter, Oregon, a very small tourist town known for a huge gold dredge. The Delta-9 Cabins were right on the main street and advertised prominently that they were “420 friendly.” We, seriously, had to check in at the Pot Dispensary next to the cabins. Wow, you gotta love the hippies in Oregon. As I’m writing this I went to their website and it states they are Permanently Closed.

Delta-9 Cabins

Most of the town was pretty quiet and what should have been a busy tourist holiday weekend was very slow. We did manage to find Carol’s Mad Dog Restaurant and Bar a short walk from our cabin. The restaurant was full and we found the last high top table in the bar where we could order burgers and beer. Nobody seemed too concerned about the virus in that place. We had a short chat with the bartender and he said the town was quiet but since he was the only restaurant open they were as busy as ever.

Sumpter, Oregon Dredge

Deby and I had time to walk around the dredge. In better times it would be open for tours and the visitor center would be open. I think these gold dredges are amazing and a real engineering marvel except for all the environmental damage they caused. They literally dug up miles and miles of river bed searching for gold clawing their way across the state. You can read more about it HERE.

A pile of treasure in Sumpter

The Grand Canyon of Oregon

Somewhere in our research we came across “The Grand Canyon of Oregon.” A quick search showed it wasn’t far from us so we decided to give it a look.

Ok, technically it’s The Owyhee Canyonlands and it was called The Grand Canyon of Oregon in a New York Times article. We found a nice dirt road runs through it and decided to give it a go, we weren’t disappointed.

Oregon Route 245

Came across this friendly guy wondering what we were doing on his road.

Further down the road we hit pavement but still hadn’t seen another vehicle all day. We had to stop to avoid disturbing lunch time for these two.

Another nice day riding with virtually no traffic and good weather. I’m pretty sure we didn’t interact with any human beings and had a huge social distance from the world. It wasn’t bad.

Burns Oregon

Well, hmmm. I wouldn’t call Burns, Oregon in itself a tourist destination. The small town (population 2800) seems to mostly support the surrounding ranches. We booked two nights at the Best Western on main street. We wanted to use Burns as a launching point to explore the area around the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge. An interesting side note, in 2016 the Refuge was the site of a takeover by “far-right extremists.” You can read the Wikipedia account of the takeover HERE. When we were there, the town was quiet and the visitor center for the Refuge was closed.

It was Memorial Day but didn’t seem like it at all. We rode 323 miles in and around the refuge and found some great unpaved back roads.

We rode an excellent dirt road to the Pete French Round Barn State Heritage Site.

Round barns were more common in the Midwest between 1880 and 1920 but this one is unusual in Oregon and was built in the mid 1880’s. As a public space, we could walk inside to look around and we found a family of owls living in the rafters of the barn. We managed to get a few great pictures. I’m pretty sure these were Great Horned Owls.

We explored some more back roads before heading to “Diamond Craters Outstanding Natural Area.” I love it that they include the word “outstanding” in the official title of the place.

From the website:
Diamond Craters, an Outstanding Natural Area of 17,000 acres (23 square miles), has some of the most diverse basaltic volcanic features in the nation clustered within a small, accessible area. The area displays an entire range of eruptions possible in basaltic volcanism. It was formed sometime in the past 25,000 years and now resembles a thin, rocky pancake with a few bumps. Features identifiable at the Outstanding Natural Area include craters and vents, cinder cones, spatter cones, lava tubes, driblet spires, a graben, and a water-filled maar.

Exploring the “Outstanding” Diamond Craters

Yes, we were on a roll and having a fun day. Next up was a visit to one of our favorite places, the Alvord Desert. The Alvord Desert is a 12 mile by 7 mile dry lake bed in SE Oregon. We have been there a few times before, but it’s always fun to ride down onto the lakebed and rip around for a while. Similar to the more famous Bonneville Salt Flats, it’s a large perfectly flat dry lake bed.

It’s miles and miles of nothing, you can go as fast as you want. I made up a challenge to see how long we could ride with our eyes closed. Ten seconds is a LONG TIME at 60 mph. Scary, but not too dangerous since there is literally nothing to run into. I even tried it with no hands! We’ve been there in the past when a club of airplane “gliders” were using the field. We watched them being launched with big cables pulled by trucks. Another time we met some friends to camp on the lakebed and since it’s so huge and you can’t see all the way across, we had to locate their camper using GPS coordinates. There is really only a couple of entry points onto the desert and I learned from past experience to drop a pin on my GPS to mark the spot or it would be difficult to navigate back.

After having too much fun zooming around the lakebed we took the long and washboarded gravel road north to OR 78 and back to the luxury Best Western for the night.

With the holiday weekend over we decided it was time to head towards home. Looking for a slightly longer way home we rode north on 395 to Ukiah and then east on National Forest road 52 where we hoped to explore the northern part of the Elkhorn Scenic Byway on Forest Road 73 to Haines, OR.

I took this picture at a roadside stop. I supposed I should have read the little black box on the left, “Ask about road conditions past Granite.” The GPS elevation was at 4,000 feet, then 5,000 feet and finally at 6,000 feet and still climbing we came to this.

We rode a little further but the road kept climbing and the ruts were getting narrower and it was getting late in the day. I knew from well earned experience where this was going to end up so we wisely turned around. The “go around” route took us back to Sumpter, home of the 420 cabins. We stopped for gas at the only station in town and recognized the attendant as the bartender from Carol’s Mad Dog Restaurant a few nights before. We chatted for a while and he confirmed I made the wise decision to turn around stating the road probably wouldn’t be open for another month.

We spent the night at a modern hotel in Baker City along I-84 and rode the super slab home the next day. 1934 miles total.

Six days of fun. Just what we needed for a short get-away almost halfway through the year of the Covid.

But what’s next? Yes, there was an even bigger adventure in August on the “small bikes.”

Thanks for the comments and for following.

Donn and Deby

The world trip that wasn’t

My last post was on May 5, 2020. Now, in the days before Christmas, I thought I would catch up on this crazy year. Recently, I read a newspaper article that encouraged people to document what they did during the year of the Covid pandemic for historical perspective. I like that. In fact, I often refer back to my own blog posts when revisiting places we’ve been or when offering advice to others about their trips. So, I hope you don’t mind if I re-create our journeys in 2020 over the next few posts. This will be fun, and hopefully a diversion for the winter months.

The plan was to ship our motorcycles to Japan and start on April 19, 2020 riding through Japan, a ferry to Russia and then east to Germany where we would arrive close to the 4th of July. We needed to put the motorcycles in a container to be shipped by the end of February to ensure arrival on time. By that time the virus was spreading around the world and we received news that Japan would be restricting travel for tourism purposes. At the time nobody knew what to expect with the pandemic and many optimistically thought it would run it’s course over a few weeks and we could move on with our plans. Of course, we were wrong.

This would be a different kind of trip for us, we were going with a group called GlobeRiders. GlobeRiders has been around for years and is based out of the Seattle area and run by an acquaintance, Helge Pedersen. We found out about the trip because one of Deby’s long time artist friends started dating a guy who, “was into motorcycles.” That could mean anything so I didn’t think much of it until some months later when we actually met Dan in person. To say he was into motorcycles was such an understatement that I felt like I was just a beginner on my Sears Allstate motorcycle compared to his extensive history of global motorcycle travel and adventure.

Dan worked closely with GlobeRiders over the years as a guide and assisting on trips and was well experienced in global motorcycle travel.

In July of 2019, Deby and I met Dan and Jill at an art event where he told me about the upcoming Great World Tour that GlobeRiders was planning. They were going with Dan on his big BMW GS and Jill riding along in a sidecar. Would we like to go along? Hmmm, now that was tempting. On one hand, we are used to travelling alone or maybe with a few friends. We recently were on a motorcycle tour in Portugal and while we had fun, we felt a little stifled in our riding style. On the other hand, wow… Mongolia? Russia? Would we ever get to those places? Would I be able to figure out the logistics by myself? Deby and I went back and forth for a few days and finally decided to go for it.

It turns out that GlobeRiders requires people who haven’t ridden with them before to apply to be on one of their tours. I hadn’t thought of that before but it makes total sense and I felt relieved that company has some assurances that riders in the group are qualified before travelling together. Deby and I completed the lengthy questionnaires and sent them in hoping we qualified! Maybe our friend Dan pulled some strings but on August 7, 2019 I received word from Helge that were in. Now was the time for the planning to begin.

Deby and I decided that since the trip ended in Germany we would ride our older BMW motorcycles and store them in Germany for use on future trips. I still had my trustworthy 2011 BMW F800GS with 60,000 miles on the odometer and Deby would ride her 2012 BMW F650GS with 68,000 miles showing.

Of course both bikes needed extensive preparation to get ready for such a journey. Suspension, chains, tires, oil, valve adjustments, and various other maintenance items. It was a busy time in my shop.

By December the plans were coming together, dates were finalized and we were getting close. Deby and I hosted a meet and greet event at our house for the group where we could meet our fellow travelers for the first time.

In February with Japan cancelling tourism, we decided to skip the Japan part of the trip and ship the motorcycles directly to Vladivostok, Russia, in the far east of the country. This required changing hotel plans in Japan and booking last minute flights on Aeroflot to Vladivostok. We were enthused about the journey and eagerly got the changes done. On February 25th we all met at South Sound BMW near Seattle to load the motorcycles into two containers bound for Russia.

Both bikes ready to go.
Helge and Aaron tying down Deby’s BMW

I will say the guy driving the truck had the best mullet I’ve seen in a long time.

We said goodbye to the motorcycles and were looking forward to a long planned trip to Baja Mexico scheduled for the next few weeks with some friends from the Northwest Norton Owners club. Just one problem…. Deby’s motorcycle was heading to Russia!

Not to worry. While we were at South Sound BMW we noticed a beautiful 2020 F750GS just Deby’s size. It would be a perfect motorcycle to break in on a 3000, mile trip into Mexico.

I posted about that trip HERE.

By the time we returned from Mexico the news about the pandemic was getting worse and we all suspected the trip would be called off. It was.

On March 13 I received an e-mail from Helge that read in part: “……..After a long conversation we both realize that there is little hope that we will be able to go ahead with our journey as planned.”

Now the tasks involved cancelling airfare, dealing with getting a refund from Aeroflot and getting the bikes back. GlobeRiders did an excellent job taking care of the details on their end and even refunded all funds except for any direct expenses he had for shipping the bikes. A real class act. The container with our bikes made it to Russia where they were put on another ship to be returned to the US.

It was the middle of May when the bikes returned and we gathered at the warehouse of the shipping company to retrieve our motorcycles.

The motorcycles after their long journey
We were all getting used to wearing masks by this time. Here is Dan expressing hope for another trip.

So that was the end of the 2020 Great World Tour. My motorcycle went to Russia and all I got was a T-Shirt…. really! Helge sent us all these cool shirts!

So, that’s it. Our motorcycles travelled halfway around the world without us. All we got a shirt, a good story and some new friends. 2020 was off to a weird start…..

Next: We catch spring fever and blast off for some great riding in our own part of the country. Thanks for following us and as always we love to hear from everyone in the comments section or emails.

More to come.

Donn and Deby

Baja Virus Run – Part 3

March 20, 2020

From The Hill March 20, 2020: The State Department on Thursday also advised all Americans to avoid international travel or arrange for prompt return to the U.S. unless they are prepared to remain abroad for an extended period of time. Pompeo warned Friday that individuals who do decide to travel abroad could see their plans significantly disrupted.

(Note: This is a long post, just trying to wrap up the trip. Hope you enjoy.)

By March 20th we were halfway into our trip and the limited news we were receiving was getting more and more disturbing. As we rode south we had been noticing large caravans of trucks, vans and campers driving north while we were on mostly deserted roads riding south.

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Baja Virus Run – Part 2

March 17, 2020

Tuesday March 17. “This is a pandemic,” President Donald Trump said at a March 17 press conference. “I felt it was a pandemic long before it was called a pandemic.”

The nice thing about travelling in Mexico is that we very seldom watch any television. The hotels have them, of course, but after a day of riding we are usually too tired to even turn it on and if we did, my limited (but improving) Spanish made the content rather useless. We were becoming more and more isolated from the cares of the “civilized” world and focused our energies on the road ahead.

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Motorcycling in Spain Part 4

We woke to a damp cool Saturday morning at the Hotel las Grandes. Our room had a great view overlooking the dam and Embalse de Salime (Salime reservior), it was beautiful but I knew we would be in for a cool day of riding. We needed to be in Lisbon Portugal on Monday so we had a few more days to explore the area. The direct route to Lisbon would be 446 miles but that would be too easy so instead of heading south we went north back to the coast.

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Motorcycling in Spain Part 3

Dangerousroads.org lists the road to Cain as one of the most dangerous roads in Spain. A quick check of a map showed we were within 300 miles of this deadly road so we quickly decided to route south through the Parque Nacional de Los Picos de Europa and take the long way around to meet our friend Emily in Donosta San Sebastian on the northern coast.

As a “dangerous road” I wouldn’t really say it was too life threatening but it was a beautiful road through a narrow canyon.

It’s hard for Deby to keep her eyes on the road when riding past shear rock walls.

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Motorcycling in Spain Part 2

(Note: Want to see our exact route?? CLICK HERE for the route on Google Maps. Click boxes on the left of the map to select days. )

Sometimes the best plan is no plan…. We only had a rough idea where to ride in Spain with the exception that we wanted to visit Deby’s friend Emily in Monpazier, France, a small town a “short way” over the border. We had 10 days so how hard would it be to ride to France and be back to Lisbon in time for the guided tour? Right….

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Motorcycling in Spain! Part 1

I’m going to blame Art Bone and his wife Carol for being a bad influence. If you read my recent post from March in Mexico (HERE) you may remember Art and Carol from the Hacienda tour. During our time together Art mentioned that they had reservations for a Portugal “Premium Tour” with a company called MotoXplorers in Portugal. Carol asked Deby if we would like to go, and without hesitation (or asking me?) she enthusiastically replied YES!

Next thing I know we are enrolled for their 10 day guided motorcycle tour in the middle of September. Ten days? Well, that’s just not long enough to justify the long flight and travel costs. After some research we decided to fly to Lisbon, Portugal at the beginning of September and rent BMW motorcycles for our own tour of Spain to get “warmed up” for the guided Portugal tour.

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