Adventure Riding in Colombia Part 1

Sunday, February 24, 2013, Pasto, Colombia. Hotel Aura Maria.

Bogota is at about 8,000 feet above sea level so we had been enjoying cool temperatures with highs only into the low 70’s, a nice break from the consistent 90 degree temperatures in Central America. On Wednesday morning the sky was clear blue with perfect temperatures for us to gather our motos from the dealer and resume our journey.

By noon we had all the bikes back at Charlies Place with new oil, chains and filters, ready to be loaded. After four nights at the boutique hotel we became friends with the excellent staff and they came out to wish us buen viaje which is Spanish for have a nice trip. Continue reading

Bogota Part II

Friday, February 22, 2013. Near Pereira Columbia, Villa Martha coffee farm and resort.

An adventure motorcycle ride in Colombia cannot begin until the motorcycle is successfully imported into the country. Upon notice that our bikes had arrived on Monday we had our driver, Gustavo, deliver us to the Bogota Girag office to receive the bikes. Thus began a 4.5 hour ordeal to spring free 6 motorcycles through customs and retrieve them from the Girag warehouse.

Continue reading

Touristas in Bogota

Tuesday, February 19, 2013, Bogota, Colombia. Charlie’s Place Hotel.

With the motorcycles in transit and not expected to arrive until Monday we had a few days off to explore our surroundings in Bogota. We spent most of the day Saturday on logistical things, we walked to the dealer to make sure we knew where it was and confirmed our bikes were scheduled for service on Monday. Explored the area around the hotel, did a little shopping and had a low key day. Part of the day involved extracting some local currency from the cash machines. The exchange rate is $1,800 Colombian pesos to the US Dollar, so that means to take out $100.00 US we would have to withdraw $180,000 pesos. I took out a cool half million pesos to cover me for a few days. The bills are in denominations of 50,000, 20,000 and 10,000 or 50mil, 20mil or 10mil. Mil means 1000 in Spanish. It always takes a few days to get used to the local currency with plenty of awkward moments trying to pay for things.

On Sunday we played tourista and bought tickets on a steam train to visit the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquira. Continue reading

Jumping the Darian Gap into Colombia

Sunday, February 17, 2013, Bogota Colombia.

I stole the following narrative from this interesting site: http://www.darkroastedblend.com/2008/09/darien-gap-most-dangerous-absence-of.html

“The Pan-American Highway stretches from Cape Horn, Chile to Alaska with one 90 km break: The Darien Gap

This area is a forbidding mountainous jungle on the Panama side; full of swamps, guerrillas, drug traffikers and kidnappers on the Colombian side, making travel through the area not just a struggle against a hostile environment but also a maze of bribing the right people for passage and ducking bullets. 

In case you missed the dangers we just enumerated, here is an easy list to remember:
– tough nasty jungle with plenty of disagreeable wildlife.
– impenetrable swamps
– crazed drug traffikers
– pissed-off guerrillas
– greedy kidnappers (all of the guys mentioned above)
– paranoid government police
– no marked trails”

Continue reading

Chill’n in Panama

Saturday, February 16, 2013, Bogota, Columbia.

We learned that Carnival is serious business in Panama. In my last post we hoped that on Wednesday, with the festivities over, we could make arrangements to ship the bikes to Columbia and find a battery at the dealer for Deby’s bike. Wrong and wrong. Evidently the day after Carnival is an official holiday to let the hangovers wear off so we found ourselves with another day of hanging around the Country Inn next to the Panama Canal. With nothing to do Tuesday night we went back to the Carnival fiesta, this time with camera in hand.

Into the madness. 

Crazy decorated floats. 

A gazillion people and kids everywhere. 

Drum lines of congas! Wow! 

More kids. 

Big watermelon hats. 

Super elaborate floats – more racy than we would see in the US. 

Checking out the main stage from off to the side. 

Needed a good shot of the bass player. 

Half of the fun for the kids was to run around and spray people with a kind of soapy spray stuff. Even though we all were hit at least once, Michael seemed to be a prime target. 

The next day, Wednesday, we got up and rode to the other end of town to the BMW dealer in search of a battery for Deby’s bike. Nope, closed for what I now call “hangover day”. Dejected we turned around and fought traffic and heat on the crowded roads back to the hotel. Out of the corner of my eye I saw a sign for “Casa de las Baterias”. Even I knew enough Spanish to recognize it meant “The House of Batteries”. After a quick U-Turn we stopped and negotiated with sign language a new battery that was an exact fit with only a $50.00 price tag. Done deal.

I had the battery in the bike and verified it was working by noon, with another free day ahead of us we decided to ride back to the locks and see if any ships were going through. This time luck was with us so we revisited the museum with much lighter crowds and watched a few ships go through the locks.

I saw this sign, seems like good advice for any boat. 

Typical freighter and tug boats in the locks. 

Here’s Michael!

They had a really cool virtual reality mock up of the bridge of a ship going through the locks, we went through at least three times. 

Deby took a turn at the controls.

While I sent some commands from the Master Control room.

Here is one place where the really big yachts look pretty small. 

On the way out of the visitor center who should come walking in but our friends Tad and Gaila who we last saw in Nicaragua. What a blast!

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Thursday morning we finally contacted Girag about shipping our motorcycles to Bogota. They could get them shipped out Saturday and they recommended we drop them off at their location Friday “before 4:00 PM”. Ok, we had a plan but that meant we also had another day of just hanging around in Panama City. Deby spent most of the day near the pool reading, Michael and I rode to a nearby shopping mall to kill some time and do a little shopping. In the evening Deby and I took a cab to Tad and Gaila’s hotel to meet them for a valentine’s day dinner at a nearby brew pub. It was great catching up with their travels and getting to see them at their furthest point south in their yearlong motorcycle trip. Here is the link to their blog http://www.overlandnow.com

Deby and Gaila, true adventure motorcycle riders. 

I’m going to get this posted and save our jump into Colombia for the next entry. If you want to see more Panama and Carnival pictures click HERE.

More soon… I promise.

Donn and Deby 🙂 🙂

 

Watch for Cops! (Panama)

Tuesday, February 12, 2013, Panama City, Panama.

Before we left, our friend, Catherine, passed along the advice her mother always gave her, “Watch out for cops!”. For the past 6,000 miles every time Deby or I see a cop we announce in our headsets, “watch for cops”.

The TransAmerican Highway in Panama was full of cops everywhere! I’ve never seen anything like it. Motorcycle cops every mile or two for couple hundred miles, from the border to Panama City. I am not exaggerating. This was very unusual after not seeing a speed trap anywhere the whole trip. The first one we came to tagged Michael going 115 in a 80 zone (that’s KPH not MPH). Deby and I were behind him and were not flagged down so we rode a little further ahead and stopped to wait. Shows what good friends we are. It wasn’t long before Michael was putting on his helmet to go on his way, he stopped by us and told us that the cop told him it was a $100.00 fine but for $20.00 it could be fixed on the spot. No sense in arguing that logic so Michael paid the bribe and was on his way. After that the group split into two groups of three with Michael, Deby and I in the first group and Dave, Jim and Keith in the second. When we caught up for a break we found out the second group was pulled over two more times and once the cop asked for Dave’s motorcycle gloves for his bribe. Dave refused and the cop let them move on with a warning. The second time Dave talked the group out of a ticket or fine. Eventually we learned to find a fast taxi and tuck behind it. They seemed to know where all the speed traps were and the unmarked changes in the speed limit.

We eventually asked what the deal was with the speed traps and we were told that it was Carnival weekend and there was an emphasis on speeders.

The border crossing into Panama was relatively easy and only took about an hour and a half. I did manage to take a few pictures.

The closest window was passport entry stamp, the door upstairs was to inspect our vehicle insurance and on the far right around the corner was where we paid $1 for fumigation.

The window in the background is where we took all that stuff to get the vehicle import permit which we then handed to the guy with the blue hat and shirt who inspected the motorcycles and signed off on them. At least in Panama everything was within a short walk of each other.

This woman did a thorough job of fumigating the bikes with some pump spray stuff. It couldn’t have been very toxic because she didn’t wear any protection. 

We rode as far as Santiago before we found a pretty decent hotel with a pool to spend the night. The first two hotels we stopped at were full because of the Carnival festivities that are held in every town.

Monday morning we decided to get an early start when we had our first mechanical failure, Deby’s battery was dead. Her bike had been starting a little hard but we hoped to make it to Bogota Columbia to get checked since we have appointments for all the bikes to get serviced there.

The best thing to do when a motorcycle doesn’t start is to get as many people as possible standing around looking at it. 

Then get out the jumper cables, glad Michael had some with him.

And varoom! That did the trick, no turning off the 650 until Panama City! We were back on the road in no time dodging cops and drafting taxis. Our strategy worked and despite some close calls we didn’t get pulled over all day.

We arrived in Panama City around 2:00 and checked into the Country Inn and Suites, an American style hotel right on the canal in the shadow of the Bridge of Americas. 

The first order of business was to find a battery for Deby’s bike so I jumped on Deby’s still idling bike and followed Keith and Michael in search of the BMW dealer. We had the very faulty assumption it would be open on Monday, during Carnival. We got totally lost since most of the roads were closed for parades and parties and ended up hiring a cab to lead us to the dealer. He took us on a wild ride through the city and even he got lost, twice, and had to ask for directions only to find the BMW dealer had moved. Eventually after some more asking we found the very nice dealership which, of course, was closed. Between the three of us we figured out from the sign that they were closed for the holiday (duh) and would reopen on Wednesday. Somehow we found our way back to the hotel touring the slums of Panama City in the process.

The plan in Panama was for Keith and Jim to investigate a boat for the bikes to Columbia and me and David to look into flying the bikes as airfreight. It became clear that everything was closed until at least Wednesday so we extended our stay at the hotel and declared Tuesday as a free day.

Monday night when everyone else settled into their rooms after dinner Michael and I decided to grab a cab and head down to the party. I didn’t bring my camera or anything valuable because I wasn’t sure what to expect so with nothing but a couple twenties in my pocket we ventured into party zone. It was loud, crowded, chaotic, zany and fun. We were patted down at the entrance gate but there was not charge. We spent the night going from stage to stage listening to fantastic Latin music, watching a gazillion little kids prank people, and us, with some kind of soapy spray, drank beer and generally had a fun time. We were standing by the backstage part of the main stage and some guy came to talk to us. He was about our age (old) and wanted to practice his English, which was quite good. I found out he was a musician in the next band and guess what? He was the bass player! An immediate bond was formed and he brought us drinks, gave us his phone number and said if we came into any kind of trouble in Panama, even with the really bad guys, he could help us out because everyone knows him. We stashed his number away, you never know when something like that might come in handy.

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Tuesday.

On our day off Deby and I rode two-up on my bike to the Panama Canal visitor center. It was super busy with shoulder to shoulder people. Deby took this picture of me with some of the locks in the background.

Only one thing was missing… ships! Nothing, nada, nix and nay. Must be closed for Carnival?

Tomorrow is Wednesday so we will resume our search for passage to Columbia and South America, a battery for Deby’s bike and maybe visit the locks again to look for some actual oceangoing ships. Tonight? I think Deby and I will probably get our party on and check out the last grand finale of Carnival!

Thanks for following.

D&D 🙂 🙂

 

 

Costa Rica Part II

Saturday February 9th, 2013, San Vito, Costa Rica.

Today was a “travel day” which means kickstands up and on the road before 9:00 am. The route took us in a general southeast direction towards the only border crossing with Panama. After a fantastic ride on road 702 we made our way through the major city of San Jose and back onto the Pan American Highway. After San Jose the road climbs to the highest point on the Pan American Highway, which was 10,919 feet according to my GPS. We entered another cloud forest and it was super refreshing to have the temperature drop into the 50’s for a change.

This has got to be one of the best stretches of the Pan American Highway. 

We came to this restaurant near the highest point in the road and had to stop. David and Keith remembered stopping here 50 years ago, wow. We snacked and took a few pictures. 

Back on the road for some more nice, twisty roads with light traffic. 

We came to a point on the Trans American Highway, which for some reason is now called CA-2, where there is a cutoff towards San Vito called road 237. We were warned by a biker on a 990 KTM not to take that road because it was too “dangerous”. I asked what that meant and he said it was too full of sharp turns, steep downhills and dangerous roads. Our kind of road! Of course we took that route and it turned out to be beautiful new asphalt with almost no traffic. It might have been one of the best roads yet on this trip. Unfortunately, my memory was full on my camera and I couldn’t take any more pictures.

Today we rode 255 miles with a moving time of just under 7 hours. Our moving average speed was 38mph. We’re finding out it’s hard to make time on some of these roads but they sure are fun.

If you want to see more Costa Rica pictures click HERE. Follow our progress HERE.

Tomorrow we cross into Panama, hopefully it will be easier than some of the other crossings. Stay tuned.

D&D 🙂 🙂

 

 

Costa Rica

Friday, February 8, 2013. Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica

Wednesday was declared an official “off” day to explore the Palya Tamarindo so we extended our stay at the Purblo Dorado Hotel so we could spend the day hanging out on the beach, near the pool and an afternoon, take a boat ride into the jungle to see Howler Monkeys.

Into the jungle. 

Our skipper – George.

Are we a bunch of tourista’s or what? 

Today’s shot of Michael. 

We stopped on shore to see monkeys and stopped to admire the huge termite nest. I wonder what would happen if we poke it with a stick? 

Would we be crazy enough to try it??? YES! The termites came out.

We did see a few monkeys. 

After the boat ride Deby and I split off for a romantic walk along the beach. Checked out the surfers. 

Deby went in search of more shells. 

Oh, oh…. what could be here?

Something good!!

Happy girl. 

The rest of the night was spent with a drink in hand admiring a most spectacular sunset…. warning…. graphic sunset (boring?) photos to follow…..

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Thursday morning it was kickstands up at 8:30 to head to the highlands and the Arenal Volcano.

We rode East and then over the top of Lake Arenal towards the volcano on the East end of the lake. 

As we came around the lake we had some great views of the volcano.

Good roads the whole route, with a nice twisty section on the north end of the lake. 

We ended up at the Hotel Arenal Pariso Resort and Spa. A little high end for our usual tastes but there was not too much complaining. Deby and I had a “Superior” room which was an individual cabin.  Did I mention there were natural hot springs at this resort? Oh, yea, this ADV motorcycle stuff can get pretty rough sometimes.

Picture of one of the many hot spring pools……

Our cabin.

The rest of the gang was across the drive. 

The volcano erupts frequently, we were hoping to get some of these views at night. 

The mountain was steaming but we didn’t see lava flows…..

Deby and I woke up this morning and went for a hike in the national park where you can hike to some of the lava flows from the big 1968 eruption. 

Deby with Lake Arenal in the background. 

Tomorrow we pay penance for two days of soft living and will ride hard to the border with Panama. With any luck we will cross into Panama early Sunday morning with minimal delay and make another dash to Panama City where we will attempt to find a way to get our bikes and ourselves from Panama to Columbia!

Thanks for following! D&D 🙂 🙂

Nicaragua – Part II

Wednesday, February 6, 2013, Pueblo Dorado Hotel Near Santa Cruz, Costa Rica.

The trip so far:


We decided to take an off day to explore the palaya Tamarindo near Santa Cruz Costa Rica today so it’s giving me a chance to catch up on the blog while in the comfort of the hotel “living room” with a nice breeze, the sound of exotic birds and a cool drink. Monday morning Deby and I woke up early enough for a walk around Leon to take a few pictures.
Our hotel, the Best Western in the heart of Leon.Typical roads we were riding around “lost” trying to find the group and the hotel.No problem riding down these roads, check out the volcano in the background. 

Public transportation (Dave and Bob — Mercedes buses!). 

Retail along the way. 

This church was across from the hotel, not much to see on the outside. 

Beautiful on the inside. 

Let’s see…. what was going on in the United States in 1524? 

Destination for Monday was Granada, an easy 109 miles (ha). We took a detour off the Pan American Highway onto CA-3. I would say it’s not as well maintained. 

Plenty of sections where the pavement was non-existent. 

Being off the main highway, traffic was light and didn’t move very fast. 

Keith took a nice picture of me and Deby.

Keith’s bike took a short nap…. no damage to bike or rider. 

Finally, the road reconnected with CA-1 near Managua, we missed the turn south towards Granada and had to turn around. As just after we turned south on the correct road we noticed two additional Adventure bikes falling in behind us. It was our friends, Tad and Gaila! (Their blog is Overland Now)  Wow, good thing we missed the turn or they wouldn’t have caught us. We pulled over for a short reunion meeting, introductions and a few pictures.

Deby and Gaila. 

Donn and Tad. 

They rode with us to Granada where we had a great stay at the Hotel Granada The four of us went in for a horse drawn carriage tour of the city. 

Our guide even let Gaila take the reigns for a while… you think motorcycle riding is dangerous, yikes. The horses took off at a near gallop on a wild ride down a one way street before our guide showed Gaila how to control all that horsepower.

On the way back our guide stopped at a small cigar factory where we had an in person demonstration of cigar rolling. They let Gaila roll one of her own (hmmm, she has all the fun).

The raw tobacco. 

After rolling they go in this thing.

And then into a press.

Then we sampled the product.

We ended the night with a nice dinner with the whole group and a walk about town. 

We took a staged photo for the Issaquah Press. 

 

Tuesday morning we decided to continue on to Costa Rica and Tad and Gaila decided to hang back and do some more exploring in and around Nicaragua. From Granda, it was a 60 mile ride to the Costa Rica border and another crazy crossing. This time we broke our record, over 4 hours standing around in blazing heat to cross the border.

There were two Costa Rica bike clubs crossing into Nicaragua. 

Most of the bikes were Honda’s decked out to look like Harleys but the club president, who looked every bit as bad-ass as a serious club rider in the US, had a 2006 Street Glide FLHX, almost the same bike as my old Harley. We struck up a conversation about the bike, it was brand new to him and it was clear he had the best bike of the bunch by far and he was extremely proud of it. One, problem, he didn’t know how to work the radio! Ha! I was an expert so I gave him a short tutorial and soon he had the music blasting.

There were two girls with the group, one of them was the president’s girl. They had riding boots with impossibly tall heals. 

Ok,,,, I’m not making this up, and I know it’s true because they had their names on their vests… their names were Ginger and Mary Ann! Oh my, the age old question was on all our minds…

Mike couldn’t resist a photo op and gave me permission to post this even it has the potential of causing relationship stress back home 🙂

Chatting with the other bikers added some entertainment to the wait. I left the president a Harley 105th Anniversary sticker I had in my bag. He was pretty happy about that.

The rest of the border crossing was almost too painful to recount but it involved many trips back and forth to various windows, photocopies, stamps, more stamps and purchasing of insurance. Eventually we got through and blasted to the beach arriving well after dark.

Time to go, the beach is calling and we have a river tour scheduled for this afternoon. Tomorrow we’re riding up into the mountains to check out the local volcano!

Thanks for following.

More Nicaragua pictures HERE. and follow our track HERE.

D&D 🙂 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

Nicaragua

Sunday, February 3, 2013, Leon Nicaragua

Another border crossing today after a short ride from our hotel in Choluteca Honduras. We were in a pretty nice place that was recommended called the Hacienda Gauliqueme

$80 USD included a full breakfast. After a HOT day riding we ended up directly in the pool.

The goal for today was Leon, Nicaragua, a short 116 mile run but it included a border crossing so we decided to leave at 9:30 to leave plenty of time.

The road, CA-3 was full of huge pot hole craters, all of the cars and trucks looked like they were being driven by drunkards as they swerved from side to side on the road. I passed one semi on the right because he thought there were fewer pot holes in the oncoming traffic side of the road. The danger, of course, is that he could swerve at any moment back to the right as I was passing. Strangely enough, this all seemed perfectly normal. Deby and I did pretty good avoiding the craters when BAM I hit one hard enough that I thought I should pull over and check my front wheel. Since it was nearly 100 degrees I spotted a tree and headed for it. As I got closer I saw some kids were standing there with something in their arms. I took a few pictures. 

Huge Iguanas! What is that about? They were very proud of them and loved showing them off but I couldn’t figure what they were doing with them. Planning on selling them? Eating them? Who knows?

Thanks to my reinforced Excel rim from Woody’s Wheel Works my rim and most of the bike seemed to be intact. When we got to the border I took inventory of all our rims, Dave’s didn’t fare as well.

Hmmm, probably OK for now but we’ll have to keep an eye on it.

The border crossing was slightly easier today and we were through in only about 2 hours. This crossing is off the PanAmerican Highway so I think it was a little lower key. I took a couple of pictures.

At the first stop to get our exit stamp a crowd forms around the bikes as usual. 

Passports were processed at a folding table out on the deck, nothing formal here. 

At the second stop to import the bikes Deby was surrounded by kids amazed by the great white gringo woman moto bike rider. 

In Nicaragua the road improved enough that I took out my camera for a few drive by pictures. This little kid was driving his herd all by himself, when he saw us he gave me a big wave. 

Sorry about the crummy pictures, it’s hard to aim the camera while riding with one hand, dodging pot holes, watching for cattle, dogs, chickens, cars, trucks, bicycles, motor scooters, kids and, more often in Nicaragua, horse and ox drawn carts. 

All this is perfectly normal to us now.

We got to Leon in the early afternoon and somehow we all managed to get split up. Deby, Michael and I were together and Dave was on his own and Keith and Jim were somewhere looking for Dave. The three of us were stopped at a hotel and Deby saw Dave ride past a side street, she ran full speed after him in her riding boots and caught him a few blocks away. Next Michael and I went to look for Keith and Jim and found them a few km’s south of the main part of town. By 4:00 we were settled in the Best Western Hotel and had time to get to a nearby bar to watch the kickoff of the Superbowl.

My GPS records a detailed track of my path. Here is my tour of Leon while looking for the hotel and lost riders. 

What the track doesn’t show is how many times I circled those blocks. Keep in mind, it was killer hot and this is a crazy busy city with narrow one way streets packed with traffic, people, bikes…. and well, you get it.

After dinner Deby and I skipped part of the Superbowl (we missed the power outage) and went for a walkabout around town. There must have been some kind of festival because there were bands on playing on the streets, people were everywhere, booths and vendors were selling in full swing. It was a hot night of people, music, food, traffic and general craziness every where – we loved it. I only wish I would have brought my camera.

Tomorrow we are going to have a short day riding to Granada and hope to meet up with our friends Tad and Gaila who are on a 1 year motorcycle journey. You can read their blog HERE.

You can see more pictures of Nicaragua HERE, and don’t forget you can track our progress real time on SpotWalla HERE. Thanks for following and we love the comments.

D&D 🙂 🙂